Iris Fall Spotlight

New Designer Spotlight: Black Iris. Rosenberg and Wexler are well underway with expansion, noting a finished next fall/winter collection.

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The lovely blossoms of the iris (Iris spp.) fill gardens in spring, early summer and in some cases, early fall. With more than 300 iris species worldwide, there’s an iris for every climate, ranging from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 3 through 13. While most iris require full sun to thrive and produce their beautiful flowers, there are a few species that you can grow in the shade under trees or on the north side of the house.

Sun-Loving Irises

Most iris species prefer full sun and will tolerate some shade. The ideal soil conditions may vary from relatively dry to boggy soils, depending on the species.

The ever-popular bearded iris (Iris germanica) rises majestically over its fan of wide, sword-shaped leaves. Hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9, bearded iris prefer full sun or at least six hours of sunlight daily. While most bearded iris grow up to 28 inches tall, the dwarf bearded irises such as ‘Bumblebee Deelite’ grow between 10 and 17 inches tall. The original German iris has been hybridized by both plant breeders and nature, resulting in thousands of cultivars and a rainbow of colors, befitting the source of the plant’s name, the Greek goddess of the rainbow – Iris.

Though known as Dutch iris (Iris hollandica), these sun-loving iris are hybrids developed by Dutch growers. The 1- to 2-feet-tall plants feature gray-green leaves and large 4-inch-wide flowers on sturdy stalks. You can grow Dutch iris in USDA zones 6 through 9.

Japanese iris (Iris ensata) is also known as Japanese water iris. Native to eastern Asia and cultivated in Japan for more than 500 years, it prefers full sun to partial shade. The ruffled, flat flowers flutter in the breeze above the clumps of 24-inch-tall sword-shaped leaves. Although these hardy iris prefer moist to wet soils in summer, in winter, the rhizomes will rot if left sitting in water. You can grow Japanese iris in pots and sink them in a pond or water feature for most of the year, then move them to a drier location in winter. Alternately, they will grow in your USDA zone 4 through 9 garden if you keep the soil evenly moist, though the plants may be less vigorous.

Siberian iris (Iris sibirica) are the easiest iris to grow in the home garden. They thrive in both full sun and partial shade. Though they will grow in full shade, the lack of sunlight affects their growth and flowering. These European and Central Asian natives prefer USDA zones 3 through 8, and unlike the bearded iris, they will grow in average, moist and wet conditions, including heavy clay soils.

A North American native, the Southern blue flag iris (Iris virginica), also known as Virginia iris, grows vigorously in medium to wet soils in USDA zones 5 through 9. At 1 to 3 feet tall and equally wide, it grows best in wet, boggy, acidic soils. You can plant it in your pond, in water up to 6 inches deep, or in a consistently moist flowerbed. While it prefers full sun, in warmer regions, it will tolerate light shade.

The northern blue flag iris (Iris versicolor) is virtually identical to its Southern cousin. It thrives in USDA zones 2 through 7. It tolerates moderate to wet soils and can grow in 2 to 4 inches of standing water, such as a pond. It grows in full sun or partial shade.

Shade-Tolerant Irises

While most iris will tolerate some shade, especially in hotter climates, the stinking iris (Iris foetidissima) is the most shade tolerant of the iris species. While it also thrives in sun and partial shade, the stinking iris, also known as Gladwin or coral iris, adds color to shaded woodland gardens. The pale lilac flowers rise amid 18- to 24-inch leaves in late spring, followed by seedpods that open in fall to reveal bright orange bead-like seeds. You can leave the dried seed stalks in the garden for visual interest in winter or add them to dried flower arrangements. Despite the common name, stinking iris acquired their name because of the unpleasant aroma of the cut or bruised leaves. While stinking iris grows in USDA zones 6 through 9, the leaves are only evergreen in warmer climates. They will die to the ground in areas with freezing winters.

A native of northeastern North America, the dwarf crested iris (Iris cristata) grows 3 to 8 inches tall and 6 to 12 inches wide. Its rapidly spreading nature and tolerance for both sun and shade make it an easy-to-grow ground cover in USDA zones 3 through 9.

Other Members of the Iridaceae Family

A Brazilian native, the walking iris (Neomarica sp.) thrives in sun or partial shade. Walking iris are also known as fan iris, apostle plant and poor man’s orchid. The plants spread by developing plantlets at the top of the flower stalks. The stalks then bend to the ground, where the new plants root.

There are several species found in home gardens, including the yellow and mahogany flowering Neomarica longifolia; the white flowers with brown and blue patches of Neomarica gracilis; and Neomarica northiana and the non-walking, blue-purple flowering Neomarica caerulea. These quickly spreading rhizomes thrive in USDA zones 9 through 11.

Similar to Neomarica and also known as walking iris, the Trimezia species features yellow blossoms with brown or purple in the center. The flowers may be spotted, banded or both. Native to the warmest locations in the West Indies, Central and South America, these subtropical and tropical flowers prefer USDA zones 9 through 13. They also prefer the full sun or partially shaded locations in the garden.

Planting Iris in Your Garden

Iris are divided into two main groups, rhizomes and bulbs. The planting methods vary according to the iris group. In general, iris prefer a loose, well-drained, acidic soil. Most iris are planted or divided and transplanted in late summer, so the rhizomes or bulbs have time to become established in the garden before winter.

When planting iris rhizomes, loosen the soil and dig in 2 to 4 inches of well-decomposed compost. Then dig a hole 4 to 5 inches deep and at least twice as wide as the rhizome. Mound excess soil in the center; then snuggle the rhizome into the hole. The roots should extend out and away from the rhizome. Backfill with the excavated soil. The upper one-third to one-quarter of the rhizome should be exposed to the sun, or, in very hot climates, barely covered with soil. Do not mulch iris rhizomes. Water thoroughly.

Iris bulbs, like other spring-blooming bulbs, should be planted in late fall at a depth of two to three times the width of the bulb. Amend the soil with compost; then plant the bulb with the pointed end up. Cover with soil and water thoroughly.

Separate walking iris plantlets from the parent plant after they’ve rooted in the ground. Dig up the little plant and move it to a new location. Plant at the same level in the soil or in a flowerpot. Water after transplanting.

Caring for Your Iris

Iris are relatively easy care plants. Keep the soil evenly moist; water when it is dry to the touch. Fertilize iris in spring with a slow-release fertilizer formulated for iris or bulbs. Fertilize reblooming irises a second time after they’ve finished their spring bloom.

Deadhead the spent blooms regularly. After the iris finishes blooming, cut the flower stalks back to the base of the plant. Do not cut back the foliage.

Monitor the iris for iris borers. Watch for dark vertical and watery-appearing lines in the leaves. If these appear, remove the leaf and dispose of it in the trash. The iris borer, a fat white or pinkish grub, may be seen when dividing the iris clumps. The pest can also cause rotting in the rhizome. Dispose of any infected rhizomes in the trash. Preventive care includes removing all debris and dead leaves after the first frost, which will reduce the number of eggs hidden in and around the iris plants.

Dividing Your Iris Plants

Every two or three years, the iris should be divided. Wait until late summer after the plant has finished blooming, and dig it up. Separate the rhizomes or bulbs with a sharp knife. Disinfect the knife with Pine-Sol or other household cleaner. Dispose of dead or rotting parts; do not put them on the compost pile. Wash the rhizomes or bulbs carefully and inspect for pests. While not necessary, you can rinse them in a 10 percent bleach solution as a preventive measure. Replant the rhizomes or bulbs in the garden or share with family, friends and neighbors.

About the Author

Ruth de Jauregui is an old-school graphic artist and writer who focuses primarily on garden topics. She writes a weekly garden column and authored 50 Fabulous Tomatoes for Your Garden. She continues to write nonfiction articles on gardening and other topics and is working on a second '50' book about plants that attract hummingbirds.

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Bearded irises (Iris germanica) grow sword-like fans of tall green leaves and produce tall spikes of purple, red, yellow, white or pink blooms. Each drooping petal has a fuzzy spot, or beard, near its base. These low-maintenance plants thrive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Irises benefit from periodic cutting back, which can improve flowering while keeping the foliage healthy and attractive.

Flower Pruning

Irises either bloom once yearly, usually in late spring or early summer, or they grow as repeat bloomers that may produce a second flush of blooms in late summer. The flower stalks usually produce multiple blooms along their length. You can cut back the stalks to the ground after all the buds have opened and completed the bloom cycle. Removal of the flower stalks prevents seed formation, which encourages repeat-bloomers to attempt a second flowering cycle. Preventing seeds also keeps the plant stronger since it can use the energy and nutrients for root and foliage growth.

Fall Pruning

The foliage may remain green through winter in mild climates, but it usually begins to die back in mid- to late-fall. Cutting back the leaves to within 6 inches of the ground once they begin to yellow or look tattered allows the iris to use its energy for healthy root growth instead of trying to maintain the foliage through winter. You can cut back dead or damaged leaves at any time during the year, but only cut back the majority of the foliage in fall or early winter.

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Division

Division prevents iris beds from becoming overcrowded. Iris grows from a thick root called a rhizome, which continues to grow and expand each year. Irises generally require dividing every three to five years for best growth. Cut the foliage back to one-third its height before digging up the roots six weeks after the last flowering cycle. You can cut the rhizomes into 3- to 6-inch pieces that contain both leaves and roots, then replant them 10 inches apart so the top of the rhizome is just beneath the soil surface.

Basic Care

Iris plants require minimal care beyond occasional cutting back. The plants grow well in dry soil and only require watering when the top 2 to 4 inches of soil feels dry. They flower best in areas that receive full, all-day sunlight. Iris also has low fertilizer needs. Apply 1/2 cup of a 5-10-10 fertilizer and work it into the top 6 inches of soil before planting new rhizomes or replanting divided rhizomes to provide nutrients to the soil.

About the Author

Jenny Harrington has been a freelance writer since 2006. Her published articles have appeared in various print and online publications. Previously, she owned her own business, selling handmade items online, wholesale and at crafts fairs. Harrington's specialties include small business information, crafting, decorating and gardening.